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CHACHAPOYAS , the unlikely capital of the departmento de Amazonas, is poised on an exposed plateau between two river gorges, at 2234m above sea level. In Aymara, Chachapoyas means "the cloud people", perhaps a description of the fair-skinned tribes who used to dominate this region, living in one of at least seven major cities, each one located high up above the Utcubamba Valley on prominent, dramatic peaks and ridges. Many of the local inhabitants still have light-coloured hair and remarkably pale faces. The town today, although friendly and attractively surrounded by wooded hills, is of no particular interest to the traveller except as a base from which to explore the area's numerous archeological remains - above all the ruins of Kuelap . Even at the start of the 21st century, Chachapoyas remains well off the beaten track, though it has become a firm favourite for those who have made it to this remote and beautiful destination. A small town by Peruvian standards, Chachapoyas was once a colonial possession rich with gold and silver mines as well as extremely fertile alluvial soil, before falling into decline during the Republican era. Recently, however, with the building of the Cajamarca road and the opening up of air travel, it has developed into a thriving little market town supporting a mostly Indian population of some seven thousand, with a reputation of being among the most friendly and hospitable in Peru. The pleasant Plaza de Armas contains a colonial bronze fountain, a monument to Toribio Rodriguez de Mendoza, the Cathedral and the municipal buildings. The town also possesses a couple of churches of some interest, notably the Iglesia del Senor de Burgos , known for its attractive colonial imagery, and the Iglesia de Santa Ana , the first of its kind built by the Spanish. There is very little tourism infrastructure in Chachapoyas or the surrounding region, but, if you are prepared to camp, you can explore a wealth of interesting sites in little charted territory.
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