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There are two routes up to Chachapoyas from the coast, both of them arduous, bumpy and meandering. By far the easiest is the northern route from Chiclayo via Olmos, Jaen and Bagua, involving fewer climbs than the Cajamarca route and crossing the Andes by the Porculla Pass, the lowest possible track. Daily buses cover the entire Chiclayo to Chachapoyas route (10-12hr in the dry season; up to 20hr from Nov to March), but seats get booked up days in advance. The road from Cajamarca is certainly more memorable and spectacular, though it is also more dangerous both in terms of the precipitous nature of the roads and the, nowadays very rare, possibility of buses being held up by robbers. The route winds through green mountain scenery, past dairy herds and small houses built in a variety of earthy colours, and crosses into the Maranon Valley beyond Leimabamba, reaching heights of almost 4000m before descending to the town of Chachapoyas. The whole trip takes at least twenty hours, and involves changing buses at Celendin . Palacios run daily services along the 112-kilometre route from Cajamarca to Celendin ($5, a 5hr trip), where you can get twice-weekly Transportes Virgen del Carmen and Empresa Jauro buses (Thurs & Sun) from Jiron Caceres 108 (7 blocks from the Plaza de Armas), for the fourteen-hour ($7) journey to Chachapoyas. The seats are often sold out the day before, so buy tickets in advance if possible. If you have to break the journey overnight at Celendin and need accommodation , try the Hotel Loyers ($5-10), on Jiron Galvez, or Hotel Amazonas ($10-20), Jiron 2 de Mayo; alternatively the Hotel Celendin, on the Plaza de Armas ($10-20), which has private baths and its own restaurant, or the nearby Hotel Amazonas, on Jiron Galvez ($5-10), which is slightly cheaper and more basic, but has a good reputation. If you happen to be here on a Sunday, check out the great market , which has particularly good bargains in leather goods.
CelendínCBravo says "www.celendinperu.com has Naranja Mecanica guest house, tours & info in English & Dutch."
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