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Though less known and less visited than the regions around Cusco, Ancash or Lima, the northern reaches of Peru definitely repay the time spent exploring. It's an immensely varied, often intriguing corner of the country, ranging from a handful of culturally vital cities that stand out as welcoming oases along the desert coast, up to secluded villages in the Andes where you may well be the first foreigner to pass through for years. On top of this, the entire area is brimming with Inca and pre-Inca sites, some of them uncovered in the last decade or two, making it among the most historically and archeologically important parts of Peru. Trujillo , which rivals Arequipa for the title of Peru's second city, is one of the country's undiscovered jewels, located on the seaward edge of the vast desert plain at the mouth of the Moche Valley. It's an interesting colonial city with all the usual modern amenities and is something of a northern capital, even if few people have heard of it before they arrive. Its attraction lies partly in its nearby ruins, notably Chan Chan and the huge sacred pyramids of the Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna , partly in the city itself, and partly in its excellent beaches. Huanchaco , 12km from Trujillo, is a good case in point, essentially a fishing village and a likeable resort within walking distance of sandy beaches and massive ancient ruins. The so-called "Northern Circuit" is a variety of established touring routes through the Andean region above Trujillo, all of which take the beautifully situated mountain town of Cajamarca as their main focus. It was here that Pizarro first encountered and captured the Inca Emperor Atahualpa to begin the Spanish conquest of Peru, and around the modern city are a number of fascinating Inca ruins - many linked with water and ritualized baths. Cajamarca is also one of the springboards for the smaller town of Chachapoyas and the ruined city complex of Kuelap , arguably the single most overwhelming pre-Columbian site in Peru. Beyond, there are two possible routes down Amazon headwaters to the jungle town of Iquitos - both long and arduous, but well worth it if you have the time, enthusiasm and necessary equipment. Alternatively, you could take the well travelled circular route back to the coast via Jaen and Olmos , or head back to Trujillo via the old colonial outpost of Huamachuco and, for the really adventurous, visit the remote ruins of Gran Pajaten . The coastal strip north of Trujillo, up to Tumbes by the Ecuadorean border, is for the most part a seemingly endless desert plain, interrupted by many small isolated villages but only two substantial towns, Chiclayo and Piura . Just outside Chiclayo, however, near the small settlement of Lambayeque , archeologists have discovered some of the coast's most important temple ruins whose tombs contain a wealth of precious-metal ceremonial items associated with the Sican culture. You may well decide to pass straight through on the Panamerican Highway, but you'd miss out on some interesting archeological sites , such as the ancient Temple of Sipan , the adobe pyramids of Tucume , and the ceremonial centre and ecological reserve at Batan Grande . There are also a couple of adventurous routes into the Andes, and, best of all, a number of beach resorts, such as Chicama and La Pimentel , along the only stretch of coast in Peru where the sea is ever really warm.
Open to public in May 2006El Brujo says "www.xanga.com/ElBrujoPeru describes 5,000 years of history featured extensively twice in National Geographic in the last 12 months." Casa de Clara TrujilloPaul Jones says "A great place for economic accommodation, meals, tours & information on north Peru. The owners speak 5 languages & their knowledge of the archaeological sites is remarkable. They have instantly available details & recommendations on buses & itineraries around the north of Peru & into Ecuador. A good place to meet fellow travellers & exchange tales." Tour guide for Trujillo from Salaverry portSammy says "Very simple very inexpensive and very hospitable...BUT the BIG advantage is that Michael White is the absolute tops in intelligent informed guides. A MUST for anyone wanting to see the pyramids or to see Chan Chan and also I assume, though we did not go there, El Brujo.
As good a private guide as any experienced anywhere in the world (from an inveterate traveller)"
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