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The south has been populated as long as anywhere in Peru - for at least nine thousand years in some places - but until this century no one guessed the existence of this arid region's unique cultures, whose enigmatic remains, particularly along the coast, show signs of a sophisticated civilization. With the discovery and subsequent study, beginning in 1901, of ancient sites throughout the coastal zone, it now seems clear that this was home to at least three major cultures: the Paracas (500 BC-400 AD), the influential Nazca (500-800 AD) and finally, contemporaneous with the Chimu of northern Peru and the Cuismancu around Lima, the Ica Culture , or Chincha Empire , overrun by and absorbed into Pachacutec's mushrooming Inca Empire around the beginning of the fifteenth century. The three main towns along the coast, Pisco , Ica and Nazca , all preserve important and intriguing sites from the three cultures. The Nazca Lines , a perplexing network of perfectly straight lines and giant figures etched over almost five hundred square kilometres of bleak pampa, are just one of southern Peru's many enduring and mysterious archeological features. And for those interested in wildlife, Pisco and Nazca offer three of the most outstanding reserves in the country - the Ballestas Islands and Paracas National Reserve (outside Pisco), and the rare vicuna reserve of Pampa Galeras (in the Andes above Nazca). Arequipa , second city of Peru and a day's journey from Lima, sits in a dramatic setting, poised at the edge of the Andes against an extraordinary backdrop of volcanic peaks. The major centre of the south, Arequipa is an enjoyable place to take it easy for a while, distinguished by its architecture (including the magnificent Santa Catalina Monastery ) and for several spectacular, if tough-going, excursions into the surrounding countryside where you can explore the Colca Canyon , one of the deepest in the world, and watch condors glide gracefully against the backdrop of ancient Inca mountain terraces. Nearby lies the equally stupendous Cotahuasi Canyon . The Arequipa region is also the last place to merit a stop before continuing on south to the Chilean border. Heading inland, you'll probably want to spend time in the Lake Titicaca area, getting to know its main town and port - Puno , a high, quite austere city with a cold climate and incredibly rarefied air. Alternatively you might fancy a break on one of the huge lake's islands where life has changed little in the last five hundred years. The Titicaca region is renowned for its folk dances and Andean music and, along with Puno, makes an interesting place to break your journey from Arequipa to Cusco or into Bolivia.
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