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As far as Lima's inhabitants are concerned, MIRAFLORES is the major focus of the action and nightlife, its streets lined with cafes and the capital's flashiest shops. Although still connected to Lima Centro by the long-established Avenida Arequipa, another road - Paseo de la Republica (also known as the Via Expressa) - now provides the suburb with an alternative approach. The fastest way to get here is by yellow bus marked "Via Expressa" from Avenida Abancay and get off, after about 25 minutes, at the Benavides bridge. Alternatively, take a yellow bus (#2) or colectivo from the first few blocks of Avenida Garcilaso de la Vega (a continuation of Avenida Tacna) and get off at El Haiti cafe/bar, the stop just before Miraflores central park. A good place to make for first is the Huaca Pucllana (Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; $1), a vast pre-Inca adobe mound which continues to dwarf most of the houses around and has a small associated site museum, craft shop and restaurant; although it may be closed for maintenance, it's still worth checking out. It's just a two-minute walk from Avenida Arequipa, on the right as you come from Lima Centro at block 44. One of a large number of huacas - sacred places - and palaces that formerly stretched across this part of the valley, little is known about the Pucllana, though it seems likely that it was originally named after a pre-Inca chief of the area. It has a hollow core running through its cross-section and is thought to have been constructed in the shape of an enormous frog, symbol of the rain god, who evidently spoke to priests through a tube connected to the cavern at its heart. It may well have been the mysteriously unknown oracle after which the Rimac (meaning "he who speaks") valley was named; a curious document from 1560 affirms that the "devil" spoke at this mound. From the top of the huaca you can see over the office buildings and across the flat roofs of multicoloured houses in the heart of Miraflores. The suburb's central area focuses on the attractive, almost triangular Parque 7 de Junio (Miraflores Park) at the end of the Avenida Arequipa. The park divides into four areas of activity: at the top end is the pedestrain junction where the shoe-shiners hang out; further down there's a small amphitheatre, which often has mime acts or music; next you come to a raised circular area, which has a good craft and antiques market set up on stalls every evening (6-10pm); just down from here is a small section of gardens and a children's play area. The streets around the park are filled with flashy cafes and bars and crowded with shoppers, flower-sellers and young men washing cars. In the park, particularly on Sundays, there are artists selling their canvases - some are good, most are aimed at tourists. Larco Mar , the popular, flash new cliff-top development at the bottom of Avenida Larco, has done an excellent job of integrating the Miraflores park end of the suburb with what was previously a rather desolate point. Essentially a shopping zone with patios and walkways open to the sky, sea and cliffs, it's is also home to several decent bars, ice-cream parlours, eating establishments, cinemas and nightclubs. From the end of Avenida Arequipa, Avenida Larco and Diagonal both fan out along the park en route to the ocean less than 2km away. Nearby the attractive Parque del Amor sits on the cliff tops above the Costa Verde and celebrates the fact that for decades this area has been a favourite haunt of young lovers, particularly the poorer Limenos who have no privacy at home. A huge sculpture of a loving Andean couple clasping each other rapturously is surrounded by pairs of lovers walking hand in hand or cuddling on the cliff tops above the ocean, especially on Sunday afternoons. Unfortunately, however, there have been recent reports of night-time muggings here. Miraflores' only important mansion open to the public is the Casa de Ricardo Palma , at General Suarez 189 (Mon-Fri 10am-12.30pm & 4-7pm, Sat 10am-noon; free), where Palma, probably Peru's greatest historian, lived for most of his life. There are two museums worth visiting: the Enrico Poli Museum , Lord Cochrane 466 (hours by appointment; tel 422-2437; $10 per person for a minimum of 5), contains some of the finest pre-Inca archeological treasures in Lima, including ceramics, gold and silver. The highlight of this private collection is the treasure found at Sepan in northern Peru, in particular four golden trumpets each over a metre long and over a thousand years old. The private Amano Museum , on Calle Retiro 160, off block 11 of Angamos Oeste (Mon-Fri, hours by appointment; tel 441-2909; entry by donation), also merits a visit for its fabulous exhibition of Chancay weavings, as well as bountiful ceramics.
Lodging in MirafloresSharon Williams says "Since it is THE turistic district of Lima, you can find all kind of lodging, from 5 stars hotels, to hostel, backpackers and vacation rentals (apartments for temporal rent).
It is nice to see people surfing in Miraflores beach, the same where Sofia Mulanovich, the peruvian surfer that won the World Championship, started her first steps. The same, when you see people surfing the wind by the reefs of the ocean. Full of color and emotive experiences for some.
I rented a self catering apartment, very nice and clean for less than the price of a hotel or hostel and enjoyed my privacy"
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