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Stuck out on a narrow, boot-shaped peninsula, Callao and La Punta (The Point) form a natural annexe to Lima, looking out towards the ocean. Originally quite separate, they were founded in 1537, and were destined to become Peru's principal treasure-fleet port before eventually being engulfed by Lima's other suburbs during the course of the twentieth century and these days it's a crumbling but attractive area. Still the country's main commercial harbour, and one of the most modern ports in South America, CALLAO lies about 14km west of Lima Centro. It's easily reached on bus #25 from Plaza San Martin, which runs all the way there - and beyond to La Punta - or by taking or buses (marked "La Punta") from Avenida Arequipa west along either Avenida Angamos or Avenida Javier Prado. The suburb is none too alluring a place - its slum zones, infamous for prostitution and gangland assassins, are considered virtually no-go areas for the city's middle classes - but if you're unworried by such associations, you will find some of the best ceviche restaurants anywhere in the continent. Further along, away from the rougher quarters and dominating the entire peninsula, you can see the great Castle of Real Felipe (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm), located on the Plaza Independencia. Built after the devastating earthquake of 1764, which washed ships ashore and killed nearly the entire population of Callao, this is a superb example of the military architecture of its age, designed in the shape of a pentagon. Although built too late to protect the Spanish treasure fleets from European pirates like Francis Drake, it was to play a critical role in the battles for independence. Its firepower repulsed both Admiral Brown (1816) and Lord Cochrane (1818), though many Royalists starved to death here when it was besieged by the Patriots in 1821, just prior to its surrender. The fort's grandeur is marred only by a number of storehouses, built during the late nineteenth century when it was used as a customs house. Inside, the Military Museum (Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm; free) houses a fairly complete collection of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century arms and has various rooms dedicated to Peruvian war heroes. Also in Callao is the Naval Museum , Avenida Jorge Chavez 121, off Plaza Grau (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm; free), displaying the usual military paraphernalia, uniforms, paintings, photographs and replica ships. Out at the end of the peninsula, what was once the fashionable beach resort of LA PUNTA is now overshadowed by the Naval College and Yacht Club. Many of its old mansions, although slowly crumbling, still remain, some of them very elegant, others extravagant monstrosities. Right at the tip, an attractive promenade offers glorious views and sunsets over the Pacific, while at the back of the strand there are some excellent restaurants serving traditional local food (many of these are difficult to find - it's best to ask locally for directions).
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