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By the time you reach KITENI , the Rio Urubamba is quite wide and, with the forest all around, the valley is hotter, more exotic and much greener than before. Still a small poblado, until 25 years ago Kiteni was a small Matsiguenga Indian village. With its ramshackle cluster of buildings, all wooden except for the schoolhouse and the clinic (where you can get yellow fever shots if you haven't already done so), it is still a one-street town, with more mules than cars. On arrival , trucks and buses stop at a chain across the dirt track. Here you have to register with the guardia in their office on the right before walking into the town. About 100m straight down the road, at the other end of town is the basic dormitory-type hostel , the Hotel Kiteni (up to $5) - a friendly place, attractively situated beside the bubbling Rio Kosrentni, and serving good set meals ; there are no doors for security, but your gear should be safe here. Next to the Hotel Kiteni there's an oroya (stand-up cable car) for people to pull themselves across the river; a ten-minute stroll on the far bank takes you to an albergue that has been officially closed for several years but still occasionally rents out a few rooms for trips organized in advance by agencies or groups from Cusco; it offers seclusion, spoken English, and excellent food for only a few dollars a night. The last transport (mostly combis) from Kiteni to Quillabamba genereally leaves at 3-3.30pm daily (a 6hr trip).
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