SICUANI , about 20km from Raqchi, is capital of the province of Canchis and is quite a thriving agricultural and market town, not entirely typical of the settlements in the Vilcanota Valley. Its busy Sunday market is renowned for cheap and excellent woollen artefacts, which you may also be offered on the train if you pass through between Puno and Cusco. Although not a particularly exciting place in itself - with too many tin roofs and an austere atmosphere - the people are friendly and it makes an excellent base for trekking into snowcapped mountain terrain, being close to the vast Nevada Vilcanota mountain range which separates the Titicaca Basin from the Cusco Valley. Camping is the best way to see this part of Peru, but if you haven't got a
tent there are several hotels in town, including the reasonably comfortable Hostal Tairo, Calle Mejia 120 (tel 351297; $5-10), and the more basic Hostal Manzanal, Avenida 28 de Julio 416 (up to $5). The train journey south continues towards Puno and Lake Titicaca, with the Vilcanota valley beginning to close in around the line as the tracks climb La Raya Pass (4300m), before dropping down into the desolate pampa that covers much of inland southern Peru.
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