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Known to the Incas as the "navel of the world", CUSCO is an exciting and colourful city, built by the Spanish on the sumptuous and solid remains of Inca temples and palaces, and as rich in human activity today as it must have been at the height of the empire. Enclosed between high hills and dominated in equal degree by the imposing ceremonial centre and fortress of Sacsayhuaman and the white Christ figure, it's one of South America's biggest tourist destinations, with its thriving culture, substantial Inca ruins and architectural treasures from the colonial era attracting visitors from every corner of the world. Yet despite its massive pull, this welcoming city remains relatively unspoiled and gives you the opportunity to meet native Quechua Indians , who make up most of the of 300,000 people living here. Facilities are good, and its whitewashed streets and red-tiled roofs are home to a wealth of traditional culture, lively nightlife and a seemingly endless variety of museums, walks and tours. Once you've acclimatized - and the altitude here, averaging 3500m, has to be treated with respect - there are dozens of enticing destinations within easy reach. For most people, the Sacred Valley of the Rio Urubamba is the obvious first choice, with the citadel of Machu Picchu as the ultimate goal, and with hordes of other ruins - Pisac and Ollantaytambo in particular - amid glorious Andean panoramas on the way. The mountainous region around Cusco boasts some of the country's finest trekking, and beyond the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu are hundreds of lesser known, virtually unbeaten paths into the mountains, including the Salcantay and Ausungate treks, which begin less than a day's train ride northwest and a bus ride south of Cusco respectively. Further afield you can explore the lowland Amazon rainforest in Madre de Dios, such as the Tambopata and Candamo Reserved Zone, or the slightly nearer Manu Reserved Zone, among the most accessible and bio-diverse wildernesses on Earth. South of Cusco lie more Inca and pre-Inca sites at Tipon and Pikillacta , nearly as spectacular as those in the Sacred Valley yet far less visited. Travelling south from these, the highly scenic train journey to Puno and Lake Titicaca passes through scenery as dramatic as any in the country. To the west is the Andean region around Ayacucho , with its traditional villages and beautiful colonial churches, off-limits in the late 1980s and early 1990s due to the terrorist activities of the Sendero Luminoso guerrillas, but now very much open again to travellers. As the imperial capital during Inca times, Cusco was the most important place of pilgrimage in South America, and it still is today. During Easter, June and Christmas, the city centre becomes the focus for relentless fiestas and carnivals as extravagant processions bring together a vibrant blend of pagan pre-Colombian and Catholic colonial cultures. Hundreds (and during festivals, thousands) of tourists arrive and leave daily, often filling every plane, bus and train, so it's important to book onward tickets a good few days before you intend travelling. The best time to visit the area around Cusco is during the dry season (May-Sept), when it's warm with clear skies during the day but relatively cold at night. During the wet season (Oct-April) it rarely rains every day or all week, but when it does, downpours are heavy.
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