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The Llanganuco to Santa Cruz Loop starts at the clearly marked track leading off from the end of the road along the left bank of Orcon Cocha. The entire trek shouldn't take more than about five days for a healthy (and acclimatized) backpacker, but it's a perfect hike to take at your own pace. It is, however, essential to carry all your food, camping equipment and, ideally, a medical kit and emergency survival bag. Along the route there are hundreds of potential camp sites . The best time to attempt this trek is in the dry season, between April and October, unless you enjoy getting stuck in mud and being soaked to the skin. From Orcon Cocha the main path climbs the Portachuelo de Llanganuco pass (4767m), before dropping to the enchanting beauty of the Quebrada Morococha , through the tiny settlement of Vaqueria . From here you can go on to Colcabamba and Pomabamba, in the Callejon de Conchucos (though not in the rainy season, when you may well find yourself stranded), or continue back to the Callejon de Huaylas via Santa Cruz. The Loop Trail heads north from Vaqueria up the Quebrada Huaripampa and around the ice cap of Chacraraju (6000m) - a stupendous rocky canyon with a marshy bottom, snowy mountain peaks to the west, and Cerro Mellairca to the east. Following the stream uphill, with the lakes of Morococha and Huiscash on your left, you pass down (via Punta Union, 4750m) into the Pacific watershed along the Quebrada Santa Cruz . Emerging eventually beside the calm waters of Lake Grande , you go around the left bank and continue down this perfect glacial valley for about another eight hours to the village of SANTA CRUZ , which has very basic accommodation. From here it's just a short step (about 2km) to the inviting thermal baths of Shangol (daily 8am-5pm; $0.75), and there's a road or a more direct three-hour path across the low hills south to Caraz.
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