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Known traditionally as the Fountain of Youth, the thermal baths of Chancos , 30km north of Huaraz, consist of a series of natural saunas inside caves, with great pools gushing hot water in a beautiful stream, and the Nevado Copa glacier looming 3000m above (daily 8am-6pm; $0.5-1 depending on treatment). It is claimed that the thermal waters are excellent for respiratory problems, but you don't have to be ill to enjoy them, and they make an ideal end to a day's strenuous trekking. To get there take any of the frequent buses or colectivos along the valley towards Yungay or Caraz, from the first block of Avenida Fitzcarral or the market area in Huaraz. Get off at Marcara (an attractive little village whose name, aptly, means maizecorn village) and follow the rough road uphill for about 4km, passing several small peasant settlements en route, until you reach the baths. There's no accommodation in Chancos, but the valley bus service is good enough to get you back to Huaraz within an hour or so, or you could camp . There are a couple of basic restaurants on hand which are famous for their strong chicha, and are particularly popular with locals on Sunday afternooons. From Chancos a small track leads off to the hamlet of Ullmey , following the contours of the Legiamayo stream to the upper limit of cultivation and beyond into the barren zone directly below the glaciers. Keeping about 500m to the right of the stream, it takes ninety minutes to two hours to reach Laguna Legia Cocha , at 4706m above sea level. Hung between two vast glaciers and fed by their icy melted water, the lake is an exhilarating spot, with the added bonus of amazing views across the Santa Valley - to Carhuaz in the north, Huaraz in the south, and Chancos directly below. If you leave Huaraz early in the morning, you can do a fine day-trip, stopping here for lunch, then heading down to Chancos for a stimulating bath before catching the bus back into town from Marcara.
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