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One of the major towns along the valley, CARHUAZ , some 30km from both Huaraz and Yungay, has an attractive central Plaza de Armas, adorned with palm trees, roses and labyrinths of low cut hedges and dominated by the solid concrete Church of San Pedro on its south side. On Sundays the streets to the north and west of the plaza are home to a thriving traditional market , where Andean and tropical foodstuffs, herbs and crafts, in particular gourd bowls, can be bought very cheaply. The colourfully dressed women here often sell live guinea pigs from small nets at their feet, and wear a variety of wide-brimmed hats - ones with blue bands indicate that they are married, ones with red bands show that they are single. Many also wear glass beads, on their hats or around their necks, as a sign of wealth. Combi colectivos to Huaraz ($0.5), Chancos ($0.3) and Caraz ($0.4) leave from one block beyond the market side of the plaza, while the buses to Lima, Huaraz and Caraz leave from a terminal on block 2 of Avenida La Merced, which is a continuation of the road from the market side of the plaza to the main highway. In the unlikely event that you'll need them, the local police can be called at 044/794197. There are a few basic hostals in Carhuaz: the Hostal La Merced, Jiron Ucayali 600 (tel 044/794241; $10-20) has comfortable rooms with or without private bath; the Hostal Residencial Huaraz, Avenida Progreso 586 (tel 044/794139; $5-10) is relatively comfortable and attractive, with hot water and clothes washing facilities at good value, and the Hostal Las Delicias, Avenida progreso 117 (tel 044/794132; $5-10), closer to the main road towards Caraz and a couple of blocks from the Plaza de Armas, is slightly cheaper but not as nice. On the east side of the plaza, Restaurant Heladeria Huascaran, Avenida Progresso 757, has good local food , including trout and ice cream; and the Cafe Heladeria El Abuelo also serves ice creams, snacks and meals (ask for the local delicacy of beanshoots); the Restaurant y Pena La Punta Olimpica, Avenida La Merced 500 specializes in fish dishes and comida criolla, is good and cheap with music at weekends. In the 1980s a cave was discovered a few kilometres north of Carhuaz, on the other side of the Rio Santa in the Cordillera Negra. It can be accessed in just over an hour's walk, beyond the sports stadium and up the stream past the unusual church, which sits beside the road from Carhauz to Yungay. The cave contained bones of mastodons and llamas and suggested human occupation dating from as far back as 12000 BC. Situated close to a natural rock formation which looks vaguely like a guitar, the site is now known as the cave of Hombre Guitarrera (Guitar Man).
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