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The attractive town of CARAZ , known for its honey and milk products, is little less than 20km down the Santa Valley from Yungay and sits quietly at an altitude of 2285m well below the enormous Huandoy Glacier. Palm trees and flowers adorn a classic colonial Plaza de Armas , while the small daily market , three blocks north of the plaza, is normally vibrant with activity, good for fresh food, colourful basketry, traditional gourd bowls, religious candles and hats. Nearby there are the interesting archeological ruins of Tunshucayco , a couple of kilometres northeast of town along 28 de Julio, close to the Lago Paron turn off; probably the largest ruins in the Callejon de Hualyas they apparently date back to pre-Chavin era, later influenced by the Huaylas culture and perhaps, after that, the Wari. A possible ceremonial centre, it may well also have had a defensive function given its dominating position overlooking the valley. The best place to stay is the brand new Hostal Perla de Los Andes, Plaza de Armas (tel 044/792007; $10-20) - spic, span and thus completely out of character with the rest of Caraz - offering comfortable rooms with hot water, private bath and TV; it also has a very nice restaurant. Across the plaza, the attractive old Hotel la Suiza Peruana, at Jiron San Martin 1133, close to the Plaza de Armas (tel 044/722166; $5-10), is cheap and basic but is in an interesting old building with a small but verdant patio; it also has a restaurant. Also near the plaza, the better organized and cleaner Hostal Chavin, Jiron San Martin 1135 (tel 044/791171; $5-10), is good value and some rooms have private bath, while the cheapest place in town is the Alojamiento Ramirez, Daniel Villar 407 (no tel; up to $5). One other rather unusual hostal is the Hostal Chamanna, a little out of town down 28 de Julio, at Avenida Nueva Victoria 185 (tel 044/682802, fax 791642, chamanna@usa.net, www.welcome.to/chamanna; $20-30). Set in a lovely labyrinth of gardens, streams and patios, not all rooms have private bath but they are very stylish and have distinctive ethnic murals. For places to eat , try the Cafe de Rat, just down from the Plaza de Armas, which serves pasta and pizzas, pancakes and vegetarian food, as well as having darts, maps, guide books, music and Internet access. Also on the plaza, the Polleria El Mirador does reasonably priced lunches and evening meals of Peruvian and international food. Just up above the plaza, on block 10 of Jiron San Martin, the restaurant La Boca del Lobo serves good local food in a vibrant atmosphere, often accompanied by loud music. The helpful tourist information office (Mon-Sat 7.45am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm), with maps and brochures covering the attractions in the immediate area, is on the Plaza de Armas, while the telephone office is at Raimondi 410. For money exchange there's a Banco de Credito at Jiron Daniel Villa 217 or there's the Banco de la Nacion on Jiron Raimondi, half a block from the Plaza de Armas. For trekking guides , local information or help organizing or fitting out an expedition, the excellent Pony Expeditions can't be beaten. Most of the bus offices are along calles Daniel Villar and Cordova, within a block or two of the Plaza de Armas: Chinachasuyo serve Trujillo; Empresa Turismo go to Lima and Chimbote; Ancash to Lima; Movil Tours to Huraz and Lima; Region Norte runs buses to Yungay, Huaraz and Recauy; and Transporte Moreno to Chimbote. Colectivos for Huaraz leave from just behind the market more or less every thirty minutes.
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