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Just fifteen minutes by colectivo from the centre of Huaraz (every 10min or so from the corner of avenidas Fitzcarral and Raimondi; 40c), the vast thermal baths of Monterrey (daily 7am-6pm; $1) include two natural hot spring swimming pools and a number of individual and family bathing rooms. Luxuriating in these slightly sulphurous hot springs can be the ideal way to recover from an arduous mountain trekking expedition, but make sure you are fully acclimatized, otherwise the effect on your blood pressure can worsen any altitude sickness. The complex attracts locals as well as visitors to the area, and if you're staying at the wonderful old Hotel Monterrey the baths are free. There's also an impressive waterfall just ten minutes' walk behind the hotel and baths. As far as eating goes, the best restaurant is El Monte Rey, opposite Artesania Johao, the ceramic workshop on the main access lane to the baths, which serves great local food at excellent prices. A close second is the Hotel Monterrey itself, which serves very reasonable dishes in some style in their elegant, old-fashioned restaurant.
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