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Sliced north to south by parallel ranges of high Andean peaks, the Ancash and Huanuco areas of central Peru offer more in terms of trekking and climbing, beautiful snowcapped scenery, flora and fauna, glaciated valleys, history and traditional cultures than anywhere else in the country. The departmento of Ancash unfurls along an immense desert coastline, where pyramids and ancient fortresses are scattered within easy reach of several small resorts linked by vast, empty Pacific beaches. Behind, range the barren heights of the Cordillera Negra, and beyond that the spectacular backdrop of the snowcapped Cordillera Blanca; between the two the Callejon de Huaylas , a 200-kilometre-long valley some 3000m above sea level, offers some of the best hiking and mountaineering in South America. Nestling in the valley, the departmento's capital, Huaraz - seven hours or so by car from Lima - makes an ideal base for exploring some of the best mountain scenery in the Andes. Over the last twenty years or so, this region has become a major focus for mountaineers, and Huaraz, the vital centre of this inland region, is the place to stock up, hire guides and mules, and relax after a breathtaking expedition. The city is close to scores of exhilarating mountain trails, as well as the ancient Andean treasure, Chavin de Huantar , an impressive stone temple complex which was the heart of a puma-worshipping religious movement 2500 years ago. Separated from the coast by the western Andes, and with a distinct cultural tradition, the departmento of Huanuco is less visited than Ancash but still offers some spectacular, if remote, destinations en route to the central jungle, as well as a range of fascinating nearer sites. From the eponymous regional capital - the thriving market city of Huanuco - it's possible to visit a series of unique archeological ruins, above all the huge and puzzling complex at Tantamayo , and the deserted expanse of Huanuco Viejo , a remarkably well-preserved Inca city. It's just a short trip from Huanuco to Tingo Maria and the luxuriant rainforest regions, where the eastern slopes of the Andes merge into the jungle of the Amazon Basin. The connecting road between Huanuco and Huaraz via La Union is little more than a barely passable track, a delicate thread connecting two large but separate economic and political regions. Some terrorist activity has been reported in this remote mountain area, though the route is currently being travelled safely by more intrepid visitors; always check the situation before setting off with the South American Explorers' Club, a reliable tour company in Huaraz or Caraz or the tourist offices in Huaraz or Huanuco.
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