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The twin departments of the Verapaces harbour some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the country, yet attract only a trickle of tourists, perhaps because there's less obvious evidence of Maya tradition and costume than in other parts of the country. If you've time to spare, however, you'll find the highlands of Alta Verapaz astonishingly beautiful, with their fertile limestone landscapes and mist-soaked hills. The mountains here are the wettest and greenest in Guatemala - locals say it rains for thirteen months a year. To the south, the department of Baja Verapaz could hardly be more different: a low-lying and sparsely populated area of cactus country which gets very little rainfall. The hub of the area and the capital of Alta Verapaz is Coban , an attractive mountain town with some good accommodation and restaurants. Though a little subdued once the rain really settles in, it's still the best base for exploring the area, particularly in August when it hosts the National Folklore Festival. In Baja Verapaz, the towns of Salama, Rabinal and Cubulco also have famous fiestas, where incredible costumes are worn and traditional dances performed. Northeast of Coban are the exquisite natural bathing pools of Semuc Champey , surrounded by lush tropical forest and fed by the azure waters of the Rio Cahabon. The main road into the Verapaces climbs up from the El Rancho junction on the Carretera al Atlantico past the turn-off at La Cumbre, and skirts the Quetzal Sanctuary before arriving at Coban - a journey very well served by frequent pullman buses. Virtually all other roads in the region are unsealed and covered only by a limited service of second-class buses and pick-ups, so the going can be slow.
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