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Heading north from the Rio Dulce, the smooth paved highway to Flores cuts through a degraded landscape of small milpa farms and cattle ranches that was jungle a decade or two ago. Some 95km from Rio Dulce, at an altitude of 500m, the first settlement of any interest is the small town of POPTUN . For many travellers this dusty frontier settlement is the embodiment of rustic bliss and organic food - thanks to the proximity of the Finca Ixobel . There's no particular reason to stay in the town itself, but you may well stop by to use the Telgua office or banks. If you do get stuck here, you can stay at the friendly Hotel Posada de los Castellanos (tel 927 7222; US$5-10), where you get hot water and a bathroom. The best food in town is at the Fonda Ixobel 2 , which bakes good bread and cakes. For a more rural setting, head 4km north of Poptun to Cocay Camping (tel 927 7024; up to US$5), set in peaceful isolation on the banks of the river just past the village of Machaquila. This isolated site has camping space, very simple huts, and vegetarian and European food. Over the bridge to the right, nicely located in a patch of forest, are the splendid cabanas of the Villa de los Castellanos (tel 927 7541, fax 927 7307, www.ecovilla.com ; US$25-40 - check also for special backpacker rates), offering a comfortable base for adventurous visitors to explore the forests, rivers and caves of central Peten. Carlos, the owner, is an excellent source of information - botanical, historical and logistical.
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