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Set amid beautiful rolling countryside 18km east of Aguilares, near the site of a pre-Columbian Pipil town, SUCHITOTO lies on a small ridge above the southern edge of Lago de Suchitlan . The town's height of glory came when the original Villa San Salvador was located near here in 1528. In the many years since the capital was relocated, life has generally been quiet, except during the 1980s, when the area became the scene of bitter fighting as the army struggled to dislodge the FMLN guerrillas from their mountain strongholds in the area. The roads up and around Cerro Guazapo still bear the crumbling remains of the trenches and dugouts used by both sides, now quietly submerged beneath green vegetation. Today, Suchitoto (the Nahuatl name means "city of birds and flowers") is experiencing a renaissance, having been designated a national site of cultural heritage in 1997. It's a small and friendly place and makes for a relaxing getaway from San Salvador, as well as boasting some of the finest remaining examples of colonial architecture in the country, with low, red-tiled adobe houses stretching along the town's streets. In the centre, the whitewashed Iglesia Santa Lucia - now being slowly but extensively restored - is worth a look, with a particularly fine wooden altar. The Teatro de las Ruinas is currently under reconstruction but is planned to host music, dance and cultural events when it opens again shortly. The Museo de Alejandro Cotto (US$3.50) is a beautifully restored colonial house replete with a fine collection of local paintings, sculpture, indigenous artefacts and musical instruments. The friendly Casa de Cultura (Mon-Fri; free), opposite the church, has displays on local history and can give information on walks in the area. The shaded Parque San Martin , a couple of blocks east of the church, commands stunning and seemingly endless views across the blue waters of the lake; there's a small kiosk in the park and it makes a great spot to sit with a cold drink and enjoy the scenery. From the east and north ends of town, paths lead down to the lake shore, where you can swim, and where a couple of small bars make good spots for a relaxing lakeside beer. A small boat sometimes runs around the lake and to the small island in the middle, or local fishermen may be persuaded to take you out onto the water - the going rate is US$8-10, but be prepared to bargain. Some 8km south of Suchitoto are the remains of San Salvador Cuidad Vieja , the original capital of El Salvador, founded in 1528, and now one of the most important archeological sites in the country - though there's not much to see as yet, and most of the remains are still buried under layers of earth. Ten minutes from Suchitoto by car, at kilometre 34.8 on the Carretera San Martin, the renovated hacienda Guancora La Bermuda (tel 226 1839; US$25-40) offers a small range of excellent accommodation set amid magnificent gardens complete with swimming pool; there's also some fine walking in the area.
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