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From Aguilares, the highway continues north 19km to the major road junction at El Mayo , with its collection of scrubby comedores and bus shelters. From here, paved highways run west to the small town of Nueva Concepcion, and east through agricultural and pasture lands along the fringes of the lake to CHALATENANGO . An important commercial centre, Chalatenango - established as a Spanish settlement in the seventeenth century - has the rough-and-ready feel of a frontier settlement, an atmosphere enhanced by the raised wooden walkways fronting the buildings of the centre. During the early 1980s this was a stronghold of the FMLN, who at one point claimed to have control of 26 out of 33 towns in the department. Today, much of the physical damage has been repaired, but the huge military garrison still looms over the central plaza, next to the church, and both the city and department have the reputation of being the most lawless areas of the country. Casual visitors are likely to be unaffected by this, but in recent years there has been a rising trend in car-jackings, armed burglaries and - very rare - bus hold-ups. Incongruously, Chalatenango lies in a beautiful setting, southeast of the La Pena Mountains and overlooking the distant Cerron Grande to the west. Walks in the surrounding hills are possible, but seek local advice and don't go alone; in addition to dangers from humans, some of the surrounding areas were mined during the war and have yet to be cleared. Just outside town to the east is the Agua Fria Turicentro (daily 7am-5pm; US$0.90), with swimming pools filled by the nearby Rio Armulasco. Twelve kilometres northwest of Chalatenango, the village of CONCEPCION QUEZALTEPEQUE is chiefly noted for its hammock industry. Workshops and homes around the village turn out colourful items in nylon and, less commonly, cotton and mezcal fibre. Prices are about half those in San Salvador; the hammocks are also sold in the market at Chalatenango at roughly the same prices as here. There's no earthly reason to stay in Chalatenango: neither the atmosphere nor amenities are conducive to a pleasant stay. If you get stuck, accommodation is limited to the unmarked Hospedaje La Inez (opposite the Antel office on C San Martin, one block west of the central plaza; look for the pink door and the purple Uva sign; up to US$5). The none-too-clean rooms and basic washing facilities are somewhat redeemed by the friendliness of the owners. There's a similar dearth of places to eat ; try Comedor Portalito opposite Banco Cuscatlan on 4a C Pte or Comedor Carmary on 3a Av Sur for comida a la vista . Buses arrive and depart from 3a Av Sur and 6a C Pte, a couple of blocks from the Parque Central.
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