|
So far, the oil giants have been kept at bay from Morona-Santiago by powerful indigenous groups such as the Federacion Shuar, and the swaths of primary rainforest in the hinterland east of Macas are among the most pristine in Ecuador. Access is difficult, and many of the Shuar and Achuar communities scattered along the numerous rivers threading through the forest remain relatively cut-off from the outside world. Independent travel in the area, besides being discouraged by indigenous groups, is almost impossible to arrange, apart from along the single road heading east to the little village of San Jose de Morona, a ten-hour bus ride from Macas. The strip along this route, however, has been partially cleared and colonized, so doesn't exactly take you into the heart of the jungle. Instead, the best way to visit the area is on a guided tour with an agency working in close co-operation with the indigenous communities it visits or whose territories it travels through. Tour companies visit three main targets east of Macas. Closest to the town is the Shuar community of BUENA ESPERANZA , reached by a short drive (2hr) northeast from Macas followed by a one-hour hike. Accommodation here is usually in a traditional open-sided Shuar dwelling, made of palm shoots for the pillars, covered by cane and palm leaves for the roof. The Shuar hosts show visitors how to use the cervatana - a long, cane blowpipe used for hunting - and encourage them to have a go. Activities around here are hiking through the rainforest, with the possibility of a canoe trip. The second, and most popular, destination is to YAUPI , another Shuar community, reached on a thirty-five-minute flight from Macas. From here, groups normally set out on a two-hour hike to the beautiful Lago Kumpak , where they lodge with Shuar families living on its shores. A canoe ride on the lake by night often features in tours here, to look out for the glowing-red eyes of caiman, as well as by day to spot birds, colourful fish and lizards. Most programmes also include day- and night-hikes through the rainforest, and a canoe trip down the Rio Yaupi to visit a cueva de tayos , one of several enormous limestone caves in the region, inhabited by tayos , nocturnal "oilbirds". From here, groups normally continue downstream to join the road from San Jose de Morona, and catch a bus back to Macas (about 8hr). The third possibility, though less commonly offered, is to fly from Macas to the community of MIAZAL - programmes here normally involve a seven-hour hike through the forest to a set of remote hot springs, and a canoe ride down the Rio Mangosiza , sleeping en-route with Shuar families, and finally taking the bus back to Macas from Puetro Morona (10hr).
Your Tip for East of Macas
Help other backpackers! Write your own guides and backpacking tips to East of Macas - they will appear instantly on this page - Please only write a tip/guide to East of Macas - visit the main East of Macas forum to ask a question!
Please do not post links to your site here (they won't work) - please use the East of Macas webguide section below! Thanks.
|
