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On the rare occasions when the cloud lifts you can see Volcan El Reventador (3562m) poke its triangular mass through the greenery, 9km to the west of the San Rafael falls. El Reventador means "the burster", and the volcano has been popping away since at least 1541, when the first record of its activity was made. Its 3.5km crater is evidence that at some time a colossal eruption took place, ripping the volcano apart and leaving it a fraction of its former size. El Reventador has been quiet since 1976, when the last lava flows burnt wide streaks through its forested slopes, solidifying into boulder fields and lava beds, now slowly being reclaimed by moss. The new cone, tucked into the western end of the crater, is peppered with steaming fumaroles, a sign that the volcano may still have some life in it; check with the SAE in Quito for the latest. The hike to the summit takes two to four days of strenuous, but non-technical climbing. The trail can be difficult to follow in places, particularly on the mossy lava wastes that are often shrouded in mist, so you'll need the IGM 1:50,000 Volcan El Reventador map and a compass (a good aerial photo of the volcano is also available at the IGM). Better still, hire a guide - the guards at the San Rafael falls are often willing candidates, or alternatively can help you find one. It takes around four hours to reach a basic refuge (no charge) which has mattressless bunks and no guard. Beyond the refuge, it's hard to find water, so you'll need to take your own. At a push, it's about five to six hours to get to the summit from the refuge. A machete will come in handy for the more overgrown, forested sections.
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