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Stunted scrub and cactus growth, dry air and a parched landscape dotted with abandoned buildings isn't much of a welcome to one of the world's natural wonders, but BALTRA is most visitors first taste of the Galapagos Islands, before being whisked off by buses to the dock to join your tour boats or to the ferry for Santa Cruz itself. The US Air Force occupied the island during World War II, blasting an airstrip into the rock so planes could swiftly be mobilized to defend the Panama Canal, but today it's controlled by the Ecuadorian Air Force. Except for pelicans and seabirds around the dock, there's not a lot to see on the island. The population of land iguanas was very nearly wiped out during the US occupation, with a few being removed to the safety of Seymour Norte, immediately to the north. Following a repopulation programme by the Charles Darwin Research Station, dozens of the creatures have been repatriated to Baltra. Lying in the channel between Baltra and Seymour Norte and reached by tour boat, the tiny island of MOSQUERA is a shock of coral sand heaving with sea lions. You have free reign to walk about the island, enjoying the company of shore and seabirds, such as herons and lava gulls , and you can swim with the sea lions, but keep away from the bull male.
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