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Out on the eastern side of the archipelago, and with a shape resembling a "shrivelled appendix" according to the 1940s travel writer Victor von Hagen, SAN CRISTOBAL is the administrative seat of the Galapagos and at 558 square kilometres, the fifth largest island in the archipelago. Wreck Bay , at its western tip, is the site of the provincial capital, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno , a peaceful town that has been slowly awakening to the rustle of tourist dollars since the opening of the airport on the island in 1986, though it's still a way behind Puerto Ayora. In its favour though, you can visit the excellent new Centro de Interpretacion , which concentrates on the human and natural history of the islands, plus the nearby islets such as Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock) and Isla Lobos . On the rest of the island, points of interest include the highland town of El Progreso , site of Manuel Cobos's tyrannical regime and the Laguna El Junco beyond, or take a boat around to Punta Pitt , the far easternmost point of the archipelago. The southwestern half of the island is dominated by the slopes of the Cerro San Joaquin (measurements for its summit range from 730 to 896m), its windward slopes covered in vegetation and farmed by the island's agricultural community. The northeastern area has the characteristic volcanic landscape of the archipelago, a collection of lava flows, spatter cones and other volcanic features, which rise to a couple of hundred metres at Cerro Pan de Azucar .
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