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Just short of 100km northeast of San Jose, PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUI (known locally as Puerto Viejo, not to be confused with Puerto Viejo de Talamanca on the Atlantic coast) is an important hub for banana plantation workers and those who live in the isolated settlements between here and the Atlantic coast. Its only interest to independent travellers is as a jumping-off point from which to visit the nearby jungle lodges. Facilities are few, and inadequate even to cope with the demands of migrant workers, though there are plenty of licorias (liquor stores). Numerous buses leave San Jose for Puerto Viejo; the fast service , via the Guapiles Highway and Las Horquetas, currently departs at 7am, 9am, 10am, 1pm, 3pm and 4pm, completing the 97-kilometre trip in just ninety minutes. Buses from San Jose to Puerto Viejo via Heredia (ask the driver if you're unsure which bus you're on - there's nothing on the front indicating which route it takes) take more like three hours and leave at 6.30am, noon and 3pm, returning from Puerto Viejo at 8am and 4pm - although the 4pm bus sometimes only goes as far as La Virgen, some 12km west of Puerto Viejo. Though most people choose to stay in one of the lodges in the countryside outside the town, if you're stuck, Mi Lindo Sarapiqui (tel 766-6074; US$5-10), on the main street, is the best-known spot in town, with a good restaurant that doubles as a bar at night - ask behind the counter in the restaurant for rooms, as there's no reception. Rooms are clean, fairly spacious and have private bath. Also on the main street is El Bambu (tel 766-6005, fax 766-6132, www.elbambu.com ; US$25-40), the plushest accommodation in town, with nicely decorated rooms, all with fans, colour TV and hot water, pretty potted tropical plants and a restaurant, bar and full tour service.
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