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Steamy, tropical and carpeted with fruit plantations, the eastern part of the Zona Norte bears more resemblance to the hot and dense Caribbean lowlands than the plains of the north and, despite the toll of deforestation, still shelters some of the best-preserved premontane rainforest in the country. North by northwest from the Las Horquetas turn-off on the Guapiles Highway, the main road through the area makes a parabolic arc around the top of Parc Nacional Braulio Carrillo and stretches west to the village of San Miguel, from where Arenal and the western lowlands are easily accessible by road. The region's chief tourist attractions are the biological research station La Selva and the eco-lodges of Rara Avis all of which offer access to some of the last primary rainforest in the country. The largest settlement, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui , is principally a river transport hub and a place for the fruit plantation workers to stock up on supplies and have a beer or two. There are two options when it comes to getting from San Jose or the Valle Central to Puerto Viejo. The western route, which takes a little more than three hours, goes via Varablanca and the La Paz waterfall, passing the hump of Volcan Barva. This route offers great views of velvety green hills clad with coffee plantations, which turn, eventually, into rainforest. It's faster (1hr-1hr 30min) but less scenic to travel via the Guapiles Highway . The region receives a lot of rain - as much as 4500mm annually - and there is no real dry season (although less rain is recorded Jan-May), so wet-weather gear is essential.
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