Getting To Cano Negro
Though most people come to the refuge on tours from Fortuna, you can also get to Cano Negro independently . Driving is easy enough in the dry season, while in the wet season a boat leaves from the Los Chiles docks (Tues & Thurs only at 7.30am; for information call 460-1301). On other days you can take your pick from several lanchas: get there early in the morning, compare prices and expect to pay at least US$65 per boat for the five-hour return trip - the people at Servitur in Los Chiles can also recommend someone reliable. Note that the first 25km of the trip down the Rio Frio (taking an hour or more by lancha) does not take you through the wildlife refuge, which begins at the mouth of the large flooded area and is marked by a sign poking out of a small islet. Make sure your boatman takes you right into Cano Negro. If you take a tour, the entrance fee is included. If not, you should pay at the ranger station on the north side of the lake, provided you can find someone to collect the money. You can also stay at the ranger station (tel 460-1301; up to US$5) - call from the public telephone at Cano Negro to reserve - though facilities are variable: you may be able to buy a meal, but bring your own supplies just in case. Camping is permitted in Cano Negro, but no formal facilities are provided and there's a charge of around US$4, payable to the ranger. Unless you're an expert in identifying wildlife, the most rewarding way to enjoy the diverse flora and fauna of Cano Negro is to use the services of a guide who knows the area and can point out animals and other features of river life as you motor down to the refuge. If you come independently, asking at the docks or at Servitur in Los Chiles might turn up someone.
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