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The stretch south of Puerto Viejo, dotted by the tiny hamlets of Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, Punta Uva and Manzanillo (the main village), is one of the most appealing on the entire Atlantic coast. Palm trees lean vertiginously over small and little-visited beaches, while purples, mauves, oranges and reds fade into the sea at sunset, heralding the twilight mist that wafts in from the Talamancas. There's a low-hassle atmosphere, and excellent accommodation strung along the Puerto Viejo-Manzanillo road. Bus transport is infrequent, and you'll do best with a car. The little-visited but fascinating Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo , bordering Rio Sixaola and the international frontier with Panama, incorporates the small hamlets of Gandoca and Manzanillo and covers fifty square kilometers of land and a similar area of sea. It was established to protect some of Costa Rica's last few coral reefs , of which Punta Uva is the most accessible. You can snorkel happily here. There's also a protected turtle-nesting beach south of the village of Manzanillo. Playa Manzanillo also has a large shelf of coral reef just offshore which teems with marine life and offers some of the best snorkelling in Costa Rica. The village itself is small and charming, with laid-back locals and a couple of great places to eat and hang out.
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