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Once the Atlantic coast's principal port, today PUERTO LIMON , 165km east of San Jose, has a somewhat neglected air. There has been little activity at the harbour since the big-time banana boats started loading at Moin , 8km up the headland toward Tortuguero, and to make things worse, the city was ravaged by the 1991 earthquake, which left a trail of wrecked buildings in its wake. All in all, the place does have some rough edges, and while the scare stories Highland Ticos gleefully tell of the place are a bit exaggerated, it's worth watching your back. Generally speaking, tourists come to Limon for one of three reasons: to get a boat to Tortuguero from Moin, to get a bus south to the beach towns of Cahuita and Puerto Viejo, or to join the annual Carnaval-like celebration of El Dia de la Raza (Columbus Day) during the week preceding October 12.
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