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The hour-long ferry trip across the Golfo de Nicoya from Puntarenas is soothing and slow-paced: the boat purrs through usually calm waters, passing island bird sanctuaries along the way. In the distance are the low brown hills of the Nicoya Peninsula, ringed by a rugged coastline and pockets of intense jungly green. Much of the southern peninsula has been cleared for farming or cattle grazing or, in the case of Tambor , given over to tourism development. Cobano , 6km inland from Montezuma, is the main town in the southwest of the peninsula, with a gas station, correo, guardia rural and a few bars. Most tourists pass right though on the way to Montezuma , one of the most popular beach hangouts in the country, reached by a reasonable dirt road lined with cattle pasture on both sides.
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