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Muddy beaches and the incongruous industrial presence of the Terminal de Sepetiba put off many people stopping at MANGARATIBA , which lies 25km west of Itacuruca along the BR-101. The town setting is attractive, with a mountain backdrop, a beautiful bay in front with fishing boats at anchor and a late eighteenth-century church dominating the main square. On the whole, however, the initial impression is the correct one; there are better spots to stay further along the coast. Five buses a day run from Rio to Mangaratiba - currently at 5.30am, 9am, 12.30pm, 3pm and 6.45pm - and if you catch the earliest bus you'll make the daily ferry that sails from Mangaratiba to Ilha Grande. Nevertheless, if you do need to stay, Mangaratiba is by no means an unpleasant place to spend a night. There are a couple of hotels in town, the very basic Rio Branco ($10-20) on the main square and the Pensao do Almir ($20-35) on the road leading to the hospital. If you head from the main square along the seashore, you'll find several good fish restaurants.
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