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To the west of Quinta da Boa Vista, a short walk across the rail line, over the Viaduto Sao Cristovao, stands the Maracana Stadium , more formally known as the Mario Filho Stadium. Built in 1950 for the World Cup, it's the biggest stadium of its kind in the world, holding nearly 200,000 people - in the final match of the 1950 tournament, 199,854 spectators turned up here to watch Brazil lose to Uruguay. Well over 100,000 fans attend local derbies, like the Flamengo v Fluminense fixture, and during November and December games are played here three times a week, as many of Rio's teams have followings that exceed the capacity of their own stadiums; kick-off is at 5pm. Attending a game is one of the most extraordinary experiences Rio has to offer, even if you don't like football, and it's worth going for the theatrical spectacle. The stadium looks like a futuristic colosseum, its upper stand (the arquibancadas) rising almost vertically from the playing surface. Great silken banners wave across the stand, shrouded by the smoke from fireworks, while support for each team is proclaimed by the insistent rhythm of massed samba drums which drive the game along. Carioca supporters are animated to say the least, often near-hysterical, but their love of the game is infectious. The Maracana is open for guided tours too (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; reservations advised; tel 021/242-8806). You'll be shown through an interesting sports museum , see the view from the presidential box, reached by lift, get to wander through the changing rooms and have a chance to tread on the hallowed turf itself.
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