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The ILHA DE PAQUETA is an island of one square kilometre in the north of Guanabara Bay, an easy day-trip from Rio that is very popular with cariocas at weekends. It was first occupied by the Portuguese in 1565 and later was a favourite resort of Dom Joao VI, who had the Sao Roque chapel built here in 1810. During the naval revolt of 1893 against the government of Floriano Peixoto, the island was the insurgents' principal base: their HQ, the Chacara dos Coqueiros, still stands, though it's not open to the public. Nowadays, however, the island is almost entirely given over to tourism. About 2000 people live here, but at weekends that number is multiplied several times by visitors from the city. They come for the tranquillity - the only motor vehicle is an ambulance - and for the beaches, which sadly are now heavily polluted. Still, it makes a pleasant day's excursion - with colonial-style buildings that retain a certain shabby charm - and the trip is an attraction in itself: if possible, time your return to catch the sunset over the city as you sail back. Weekdays are best if you want to avoid the crowds, or in August come for the wildly celebrated Festival de Sao Roque . The best way to get around is by bike , thousands of which are available to rent very cheaply from near the ferry terminal; you can also take a ride in a small horse-drawn cart ( charrete) or rent one by the hour if you want to take your time and stop off along the way. Not that there's a great deal to see. When you disembark, head along the road past the Yacht Club and you'll soon reach the first beaches - Praia da Ribeira and Praia dos Frades. Praia da Guarda , a few hundred metres on, has the added attraction of the Lido restaurant and the Parque Duque de Mattos , with exuberant vegetation and panoramic views from the top of the Morro da Cruz, a hill riddled with tunnels dug to extract china clay.
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