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SAQUEREMA , 100km east of Rio, is a smaller town in a beautiful natural setting, squeezed between the sea and its sixteen-kilometre-long lagoon, retaining vestiges of its origins as a fishing village. Local anti-pollution legislation means that the environment still sustains much wildlife, including the microleao monkey which you may be able to glimpse on a walk into the nearby forests. Saquerema has a healthy agricultural sector, too, based on fruit cultivation, and orchards surround the town. The main business nowadays, though, is holiday-making: you'll find holiday homes, art and craft shops and young surfers here in abundance. Saquerema is widely rated as second only to Florianopolis as Brazil's surfing capital, and the Praia de Itauna , 3km from town, is a favourite with the surfers, who gather every year for the National Championship in mid-May. A strong undertow makes its waters potentially dangerous for the casual swimmer, so if you want to swim without struggling against the currents head instead for the Praia da Vila , where the seventeenth-century church, Nossa Senhora de Nazare (daily 8am-5pm), stands on the rocky promontory. For fishing, the Praia de Jacone is a popular haunt, stretching 4km west of Saquerema. All in all, if you're looking for a place to stop awhile, there's a lot to recommend Saquerema: a relaxed atmosphere, plenty of bars and restaurants, and lots of action at the weekend. Places to stay near the centre of town include the Costa do Sol, Av. Salgado Filho 5720 (tel 024/651-1233; $10-$35), and the Lagoa Azul, Av. Saquerema 1580 (tel 024/651-1142; $35-50), which has a pool. Further out, on the Praia de Itauna, is Pousada do Suico, Rua das Pitangas 580 (tel & fax 024/651-2203; $20-35), also with a pool.
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