Most of the recent hotel-building and development has been funnelled south of Natal by the building of the Via Costeira, which makes the northern beaches an attractive option. The two main places to head for are Redinha and Genipabu.
REDINHA , 16km from Natal, is a small fishing village facing the city on the northern mouth of the Rio Potengi, and marks the southern end of the enormous beach that effectively makes up the state's northern coastline. The beaches are notable for their huge shifting sand dunes , many metres high, which cluster especially thickly to tower over Genipabu. Redinha itself (hourly buses from the local bus station in Natal) is surprisingly undeveloped for somewhere so close to the city, retaining the air of a simple fishing village, with a small chapel and beachside stalls that fry the freshly caught fish and chill the beer.
There are regular buses to GENIPABU leaving from Natal's local bus station, every two hours from Monday to Saturday and hourly on Sunday. Genipabu is still a fishing village, but these days depends more on tourism for its income. The massive dunes are spectacular and great fun to run down: the sand is so fine it often looks like it came from an
egg-timer. A favourite local pastime is to roar up and down them in beach buggies . Good excursions along the dunes are to the mineral-water spring at Pitangui, and the lovely beach of Jacuma. There are plenty of pousadas in Genipabu, so accommodation is no problem. However, the beach stalls operate a cartel and are very expensive for what they offer; the restaurant, O Pedro, just to the side, compares very favourably for similar prices and serves a wide range of seafood.
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