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Most people who are travelling north from Recife head directly for Ceara and Rio Grande do Norte's beaches, missing out Paraiba state and its capital of Joao Pessoa altogether. This is a big mistake, as it is the most attractive of the smaller Northeastern cities, with everything you could reasonably ask for: some of the finest town beaches in the Northeast, a beautiful setting on the mouth of the Rio Sanhaua, and colonial remains, including one of Brazil's most striking churches. In addition, not enough foreign travellers make it to the city for the Pessoenses to have become blase about them, and you're likely to be approached by smiling kids who are anxious to practise their hard-learned English. Out of the city, there are even nicer beaches to the north and south, while the highway inland leads to Campina Grande , a market town strategically placed at the entrance to the sertao. The main target of the interior, though, is actually in neighbouring Ceara state, but dealt with here since it's most easily accessible from Paraiba - the fascinating pilgrim town of Juazeiro do Norte .
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