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The church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Tues-Sat 9-11.30am & 1-6pm, Sun 1-6pm) on Rua do Carmo, a vintage third-phase church, is a good contrast, while it's also a demonstration of the remarkable talents of Aleijadinho, who oversaw its construction and contributed much of the decoration between 1770 and 1783, a time when he was at the height of his powers. The interior manages to be elaborate and uncluttered at the same time, with graceful curves in the gallery, largely plain walls, comparatively little gilding and a beautifully painted ceiling. Aleijadinho left his mark everywhere: the imposing soapstone and painted wood pulpits, the banister in the nave, the flowing lines of the choir, and above all in the two statues of Sao Joao da Cruz and Sao Simao Stock. You can tell an Aleijadinho from the faces: the remarkably lifelike head of Sao Simao is complete with wrinkles and transfixed by religious ecstacy.
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