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The Museu do Diamante (Tues-Sat noon-5.30pm, Sun & holidays 9am-noon) on the cathedral square is the best place to get an idea of what garimpagem has meant to Diamantina. It's one of the best museums in Minas, not so much for the glories of its exhibits but for the effort it makes to give you an idea of daily life in old Diamantina. The room behind the entrance desk is devoted to the history of mining in Diamantina: old mining instruments, maps and prints. Dominating everything is an enormous cast-iron English safe, brought by ox cart all the way from Rio in the eighteenth century - it took eighteen months to get here. It contains a riveting display of genuine gold, and diamond jewellery and cut diamonds which are replicas: the originals are stashed in the Banco do Brasil across the road. On the upper shelf is a (genuine) pile of uncut diamonds and emeralds, as they would appear to garimpeiros panning - only the occasional dull glint distinguishes them from ordinary gravel. More disturbing is an appalling display of whips, chains and brands used on slaves right up until the late nineteenth century, though the terrifying-looking tongs, underneath the chains, are in fact colonial hair-curlers, and not torture instruments. The rest of the museum is great to wander through, stuffed with memorabilia from mouldering top hats to photos of long-dead town bandsmen: Diamantina has strong musical traditions and still supports serestas, small bands of accordion, guitar and flute players who stroll through the streets and hold dances around Carnaval, or on the evening of September 12, the Dia da Seresta.
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