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CONGONHAS , a rather ugly, modern town 72km south of Belo Horizonte, sits ill as one of the historic cities. In truth, there's only one reason for coming here: to see the pilgrimage church of Bom Jesus de Matosinhos. It's a long way to come just to see one thing, but this is no ordinary church: if one place represents the flowering of barroco mineiro, this is it, the spiritual heart of Minas Gerais. Getting to Congonhas is relatively easy from both Belo Horizonte (6 buses daily; 1hr) and Sao Joao del Rei (5 buses daily, run by the Sandra company; 2hr). There are also two daily buses from Ouro Preto, headed for Sao Paulo or Barbacena; the ride takes about three hours and is a fascinating journey, much of it on country dirt roads through sleepy villages. It's possible to start out from Belo Horizonte or Ouro Preto, go to Congonhas with enough time to see Bom Jesus, and still get to Sao Joao del Rei in the evening (last bus 8.20pm, 10.20pm on Sun), but only if you set out early. To get from the main Rodoviaria, a couple of kilometres out of town, to Bom Jesus, catch the local bus marked "Basilica", which takes you all the way up the hill to the church; it's impossible to miss. Most people visit Congonhas on a day-trip, and there's little reason to stay, but if you do decide to spend the night, the best place is the Colonial Hotel (tel 031/3731-1834; $20-35), overlooking the church and gardens, with its own pool. The Max Mazza Hotel (tel 031/3731-1970; $20-35) at Av. Julia Kubitschek 410, is more modern than the Colonial, but without a pool. If you need to eat, head for the Cova do Daniel, a good regional restaurant at Praca da Basilica 76, next to Bom Jesus.
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