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One of the very few large-scale areas of relief from the traffic and noise of downtown is the green and shade of the Parque Municipal (Tues-Sun 6am-6pm). Beautifully laid out by the French landscape artist Paul Villon, the park encompasses a boating lake, two thousand species of tree, shaded walks much patronized by courting couples, aviaries, a permanent fairground and exercise yards where Brazilian men make their sweaty sacrifices to the national cult of the body beautiful. It also contains the main arts complex in the city, the Palacio das Artes.
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