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The construction of the Igreja de Sao Francisco de Assis (Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm, Sat 8.30am-6pm, Sun 9am-6pm), with its striking curves and azulejo frontage, provides a roll call of the greatest names of Brazilian modernism: Burle Marx laid out its grounds, Niemeyer designed the church, Candido Portinari did the tiles and murals and Joao Ceschiatti (best known for his gravity-defying angels in Brasilia's cathedral) contributed the bronze baptismal font. It was decades ahead of its time and it's astonishing to realize that it dates from the 1940s. The best time to see it is on Sunday, when Mass takes place at 10.30am and 6pm. To get there, take bus #2004 (marked "Bandeirantes/Olhos d'Agua") from Avenida Afonso Pena, between Avenida Amazonas and Rua Tupinambas.
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