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Around forty million years ago, when the Andes began to form themselves by pushing up from the earth, a vast inland sea burst through from what we now know as the main Amazon basin. The natural bursting point was more or less the site of modern-day OBIDOS . The huge sea squeezed itself through where the Guyanan shield to the north meets the Brazilian shield from the south, and cut an enormous channel through alluvial soils in its virgin route to the Atlantic. The river is some seven kilometres wide at Santarem, while at Obidos, about 100km upstream, it has narrowed to less than two kilometres. Physically then, Obidos is the gateway to the Amazon; there's an old fort to protect the passage, and most boats going upstream or down will stop here for an hour or two at least. In the Cabanagem Rebellion most of the town's leading white figures were assassinated by rebels, and Obidos was looted and left ungoverned for years. Describing this period, the English botanist Richard Spruce remarked that anti-white feeling ran so strong in Obidos that the mob considered that to have a beard was a crime punishable by death. Obidos is now a pretty river town with a very attractive waterfront , little changed since the 1920s. It makes a good stopover if you feel like breaking the journey between Manaus and Santarem or Belem. The sights won't keep you more than a morning, but it is a pleasant town to stroll around. The main thing to see is the seventeenth-century Forte Pauxis on the Praca Coracy Nunes, which played a crucial role in Amazon history. It was the jumping-off point for the settlement of the upper Amazon, and the cannon still in position on the ramparts command the whole width of the river. Its strategic importance meant that Obidos was the largest town on the middle Amazon during colonial times, but the fort is the only colonial relic. Elsewhere the town has some fine buildings dating from the rubber boom and identified by metal plaques giving their history (in Portuguese only of course). Most of them are in the commercial area just off the waterfront, constructed by trading families as emporiums on the ground floor with living quarters above. Most are still shops selling simple hammocks and pots and pans. There is an interesting little museum in town which, like most small museums, depends on the enthusiasm of a single person, Dona Maria, who lives next door, on the road leading down from the main square. Everyone knows her so just ask for her by name. If the museum isn't open, knock on her door and she will be only too pleased to let you in. The collection is eclectic, ranging from Indian pottery to imported British household luxuries from rubber-boom days. There are also some intriguing old photographs: you can see that the town has hardly changed since the early years of the century. Entrance is free, but leave some money for its upkeep and sign the visitors' book; Dona Maria will insist and likes exotic signatures. The town's other attractions are river-based, as you might expect. Just 25km from Obidos along the PA-254, you can go bathing in the beautiful Igarape de Curucamba , which is served by local buses. There are also organized trips to the narrowest of Amazon river straits with impressive forested river cliffs and close-up views of river-bank homesteads and jungle vegetation. Ask at the port or the Braz Bello hotel. If you end up staying try the Braz Bello, Rua Marios Rodrigues de Souza 86 (tel 091/547-1411; $10-20), which is a reasonable mid-range hotel, while along the waterfront you'll find several decent bars and restaurants. Boats travel in and out of Obidos every day. If you're heading to Santarem, take the smaller boats that only ply that route rather than hopping onto one of the larger Manaus-Belem boats.
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