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If you only have time to visit one river town in the middle Amazon, it should be MONTE ALEGRE . Most of the town is built along the brow of a steep hill with spectacular views out across marshes and freshwater lakes, with the Amazon to the south and jagged hills to the north and west, the only pieces of high ground between Belem and Manaus. With its obvious strategic advantages, this was one of the first places on the Amazon to be colonized by Europeans; a small group of English and Irish adventurers settled here in the 1570s, almost fifty years before Belem was founded. They were soon expelled by the Portuguese, and Monte Alegre was a ranching and farming settlement, then a centre of the rubber trade, before becoming the prosperous river town it is today. However, there is a much longer history of human settlement in the region. At various points the hills behind the town are covered in spectacular Indian rock paintings , one of the main reasons for visiting Monte Alegre. The paintings have been dated at just over 10,000 years old, making Monte Alegre one of the most important archeological sites in South America. The paintings are only accessible by four-wheel-drive transport and you will need a guide ; expect to pay around $60 for the two. Depending on how many people you can get together this can be very reasonable as it is an all-day expedition. Nelsi Sadeck, Rua do Jaquara 320 (tel 091/533-1430 or 533-1215), can arrange trips. Everyone knows him and will point you in the direction of his house. Although he only speaks Portuguese, he is used to taking parties of tourists around the hills, and if he knows people are coming he can usually rustle up a few local people interested in coming along, which will bring the price of the truck rental down. The paintings range from abstract geometric patterns through stylized representations of animals and human stick figures to the most compelling images of all - palm prints of the ancient painters themselves. Some of the paintings are on rockfaces large enough to be seen from the road, but others are hidden away, requiring a steep climb to see them, so wear good shoes. Whatever time of year you go, it is likely to get very hot during the day. Take plenty of water, a hat and sunscreen. Nelsi can also arrange boat rental for around $25 a day. The water world around Monte Alegre is one of the richest bird sites in Amazonia. All along the banks of the Amazon, huge freshwater lakes are separated from the river by narrow strips of land. Depending on the time of year, the lakes either flood over the surrounding land, become marshland or even, in places, sandy cattle pasture. The whole area is thick with birdlife: huge herons, waders of all kinds and a sprinkling of hawks and fish eagles. At sunset, thousands of birds fly in to roost in the trees at the foot of the town. The stunning waterscapes set against the dramatic backdrop of hills make a boat trip really worth doing, even if you can't tell an egret from your elbow. Take everything with you for the day, including lunch for you and the boat owner. Finally, for a spot of relaxation, head for the hot springs at Aguas Sulforosas, 10km inland and reached by taxi or minibus; you can relax free of charge in the springs, and there's a bar, picnic area and pool close by.
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