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Follow the RN40 south of Perito Moreno to reach the turn-off to Estancia Telken (open Sept-April; Sept-April tel 02963/432079, fax 432303; May-Aug tel 011/4797-7216; $80-100, $60-80 with shared bathroom), renowned for the hospitable welcome offered by its owners. This is one of the best estancias to visit for a taste of what it means to live on a working ranch. As with other farms in the area, it was particularly hard hit by the explosion of Volcan Hudson in 1991. Further on, the RN40 descends through a moonscape valley of stratified "paleodunes", where paleontologists have excavated dinosaur skeletons. More basic than Telken , but also extremely friendly, is the Casa de Piedra ($20 or less; closed April-Oct), set in a clump of willows and surrounded by the marshy pastures of the Rio Ecker Valley. You can camp at this pleasant spot ($2.50 per pitch), and the Sabella family sells gaseosas , beers and, occasionally, snacks. A highly recommended trip from here is to the dramatic, plunging canyon of the Rio Pinturas and its Cueva de las Manos Pintadas. South of Casa de Piedra along the RN40, weather permitting, the vast, recumbent hulk of San Lorenzo comes into view to the west - at 3706m the tallest peak in Argentinian Patagonia south of Volcan Lanin. Approximately 10km north of Bajo Caracoles, rough roads turn off west to Paso Roballos on the Chilean border, and east to  © 2003 by Rough Guides Ltd. as trustee for its Authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. Buy the book here!
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the Cueva de las Manos, after which you reach the miserable settlement of Bajo Caracoles itself, only useful as a place to catch transport to Lago Posadas (Tues & Thurs 1 daily). There's a YPF fuel pump and the unfriendly Hotel Bajo Caracoles (tel 02963/490100; $30-45), with an overpriced shop, a cafe, a public phone (the last one, if you're heading south, until Gobernador Gregores or Tres Lagos) and a couple of simple rooms. For $5, they may let you put up a tent.
Your Tips For South of Perito Moreno
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