Parque Nacional Perito Moreno Travel Video Guide

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Despite being one of the country's very first national parks, established in 1937, the PARQUE NACIONAL PERITO MORENO is one of the most isolated and least- visited of any in Argentina. This is not a "sightseeing" park in the way that Nahuel Huapi is, nor does it have the obvious mountain highlights of the Fitz Roy massif or Torres del Paine in Chile, even though the peak of San Lorenzo lies just to the north. The bulk of the park's forested mountain scenery lies in its western two thirds, which are reserved for scientific study, meaning that most of the area accessible to the public consists of harsh, arid steppe. Its tourist infrastructure is rudimentary, with the administration buildings lacking even public toilets for those who have made the considerable effort to get here. Nevertheless, what the park does offer - if you discount the whistling of the near-incessant westerly winds - is a peace and solitude that few other places in the continent can equal.

Though you can visit a lot of the park by car in a day or two, you could spend much longer trekking here without seeing everything. The park attracts hikers and naturalists who come to appreciate the starkly beautiful high pampa, virulently colourful lakes, the imperious snowcapped hulk of San Lorenzo, and the wildlife that thrives in the absence of man. Guanacos can be seen at unusually close quarters, and their alarm call, a rasping laugh, can be startling. The very luckiest visitors may glimpse an endangered huemul, a puma or a Geoffroy's cat ( gato montes ). Condors are plentiful, and other birdlife includes the Chilean flamingo; black-necked swans; four species of grebe (including, in the summer, the graceful, endangered hooded grebe, or maca tobiano ); steamer ducks; chorlito sandpipers; upland geese ( cauquenes ); buff-necked ibises ( bandurrias ); Darwin's rheas (nandues); and the powerful black-chested buzzard eagle ( aguila mora ). In the lenga woods, you may come across the austral pygmy owl, a surprisingly tame and curious bird that you can approach to within a couple of metres. One of the park's most biologically interesting features are its lakes: aggressive, introduced species of trout and salmon have devastated indigenous fish populations throughout Argentina, but the ones here have never been stocked with non-endemic species - they're now protected, and no fishing is allowed in the park. Nevertheless, it's thought that trout may have begun to appear in Lago Burmeister, having worked their way upriver. This is symptomatic perhaps of the fact that the park's era of isolation is coming to an end:

whereas only ninety people visited in 1992, the number was approaching a thousand by the end of the decade.

The sensitivity of this special area's environment should be respected at all times: do not light fires; do not remove any archeological artefact or any of the fossil ammonites; bury any toilet waste; and pack out all other rubbish. Walkers should note that, despite it being marked as a pass on several maps, it is strictly illegal to cross into Chile at Paso Cordoniz by Lago Nansen

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