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Ambitious engineers have somehow managed to squeeze a beautiful dirt road between the southern shore of this pristinely beautiful lake and the hills that press up against it, without having to resort to tiresome infill projects. This precarious arrangement is compromised only by the occasional spring flood (September is the worst month).

Just past the neat bridge over the Rio Oro, a track wends its way up the mountainside and past the magnificent purple chasm of the Garganta del Rio Oro . Further up the valley is a campsite ($6 per person; pay at Los Nires ) at a place across the river from Estancia El Gaucho , a place that specializes in mouthwatering home-grown herbal teas. Beyond the campsite, the Estancia Los Nires offers lodging ($20 per person) and great possibilities for guided rough hiking in the wild frontier lands at the foot of San Lorenzo (for information, contact Senor Sar through Hotel Bajo Caracoles on 02963/490100). Pack horses are available for rent ($30 per day), and guides should be arranged well in advance ($150 per day for an English-speaking high-mountain guide).

At the moment, access is allowed onto this private land, but it is a sensitive issue: ask permission first at the estancia or from Senor Sar, and be conscious of the need for extreme environmental awareness - don't light fires or leave rubbish. Bring provisions and good camping gear, and prepare to get your hiking boots thoroughly soaked. To reach Los Nires you must ford the fast-flowing Rio Oro on foot, on horseback or by truck, but be careful after heavy rains - approximately twice a year (usually in spring or summer), floods make this crossing impossible for several days at a time. Climbers intending to ascend San Lorenzo from the (easier) Chilean side can cross from here to access

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Padre de Agostini's base camp, owned by the mountain guide, Luis Soto de la Cruz. Although it's not strictly legal, frontier guards tend to turn a blind eye to legitimate climbers crossing in this manner, but don't attempt to continue to Cochrane in Chile or to re-enter Argentina further south in the Parque Nacional Perito Moreno. The best maps available are those from the Instituto Geografico Militar (#4772-27 "Cerro Pico Agudo" or #4772-33 y 32 "Lago Belgrano").


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