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A land of adventures and adventurers, of myths and fabulous reality - the only thing that parallels Patagonia's geographical immensity is the size of its reputation. As a region of contrasts and extremes it has few equals in the world: from the biting winds that howl off the Hielo Continental Sur (Southern Patagonian Icecap) to the comforting hearthside warmth of old-time Patagonian hospitality; from the lowest point on the South American continent, the Gran Bajo de San Julian , to the savage peaks of the Fitz Roy massif or San Lorenzo ; from the sterile desert plains of the coastline to the astoundingly rich marine breeding grounds which abut them, among which the Peninsula Valdes is the crowned king. The term "Patagonia" was formerly used to refer to all lands on both sides of the Andes that lay to the south of the southernmost white settlement. On the Argentinian side this once signified, in effect, any land south of Buenos Aires, though as the whites gained control of increasing amounts of indigenous territory, so Patagonia's frontiers were pushed ever southwards. By the nineteenth century, the concept of Patagonia had begun to take on a more fixed location, one which is usually defined today as all lands to the south of Argentina's Rio Colorado and Chile's Rio Bio Bio . This section deals with all of Argentinian Patagonia, with the exception of Tierra del Fuego and the northwestern Lake District, and also includes a section on the deep south of mainland Chilean Patagonia. The region's principal artery, the RN3 , runs south from the historic town of Carmen de Patagones right across Patagonia to Rio Gallegos and the border with Chile, providing access to the narrow fringe of Atlantic coastline plus the vast central steppe. This desiccated area, covered by tough coiron grassland and scrub, is grey and dusty for most of the year, except for brief periods when spring rains bring forth green shoots and isolated carpets of yellow flowers. The few poplar and willow trees that exist shelter sheep-farming estancias or cling to the banks of the rare rivers that run eastwards from the Andes. From these plains rise spectacular, eroded mesetas, punctuated by areas of genuine desert. South of Carmen de Patagones, the principal highlight of Chubut Province is the fabulous wildlife reserve of Peninsula Valdes , where rare marine mammals breed in their thousands between July and April. Nearby is the resort town of Puerto Madryn and, just to the south, the valley of the Rio Chubut , where you can explore the cultural legacy of the Welsh pioneers in the villages of Gaiman and Dolavon , and at the town of Trelew , Welsh by name if less obviously by nature. South of Trelew, up to a million birds nest at the continent's largest penguin colony, Punta Tombo . West of the region's industrial hub, Comodoro Rivadavia , lies the peaceful farming community of Sarmiento , and its petrified forests, set in eerie moonscapes. South of Comodoro, in Santa Cruz Province, are the spectacular porphyry cliffs of the estuary at Puerto Deseado , famous for its colourful colonies of seabirds and its playful Commerson's dolphins, while another detour off the RN3 brings you to the 150-million-year-old petrified trees of the Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados . Passing the unhurried port of San Julian you come to sites where dedicated fly- fishermen with daily budgets ranging from $10 to $1000 come from around the globe, in particular the Rio Gallegos , a river which meets the sea at the town of the same name. The second principal artery of Argentine Patagonia is the famous - and largely unpaved - RN40 , which runs parallel to the Andes, at a distance of roughly 90km. Detours off the RN40 provide access to the western fringe of the vast desert steppe and to the area right up against the Andes, where the scenery changes abruptly: in many spots here you'll find forests of southern beech. Although some places are difficult to reach, this western fringe is where you'll find the most impressive of Argentine Patagonia's great lakes and national parks, as well as the finest spit-roast lamb asados and some uniquely wild skies. Taking the RN40 south from Esquel brings you to the first-rate trout-fishing lakes in the Rio Pico area and the mighty Lago Buenos Aires , with its useful border crossing point into Chile. South of Lago Buenos Aires you'll find the canyon of Rio Pinturas, home to one of Argentina's most famous archeological sites, the Cueva de las Manos Pintadas , with its striking, 10,000-year-old rock art; west of here are the beautiful Lagos Posadas and Pueyrredon , lying in a largely unexplored area which contains the stately peak of San Lorenzo. Just to the south of here stretches the wilderness of Parque Nacional Perito Moreno , one of the most inaccessible of Argentina's national parks, with the aquamarine gem of Lago Belgrano and excellent trekking possibilities. Beyond here are two of the region's star attractions: the trekkers' and climbers' paradise of the Fitz Roy sector of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares , accessed from El Chalten; and the craggy blue face of the Perito Moreno glacier , regularly cited as one of the world's natural wonders, situated near the town of El Calafate. Between these two sites lie two gigantic lakes fed by the Southern Patagonian Icecap - Lago Viedma and Lago Argentino . Finally, we cover the deep south of Chilean Patagonia around the area of Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales, including the spectacular Torres del Paine national park. In these southernmost latitudes, the lands are not quite as parched, and even the odd tongue of woodland begins to stretch away from the mountains. The area's tourist infrastructure has expanded considerably over the last ten years, but it is still primitive in many areas: if planning to visit the lesser-known sites you'll need reserves of patience and flexibility, both in terms of time and style of travel. Barring a few exceptions, such as Carmen de Patagones, the region's towns are not tourist destinations in themselves. Set out on a uniform grid pattern, they are generally uninspiring, low-key places with little overriding architectural style, few sights, and little in the way of distinct character. Most are useful only as transport hubs or bases for tours in the surrounding area. High season runs from December to the end of February, and it's important to book accommodation and other services in advance during this period. November is a pleasant month to visit, although the winds that scour Patagonia are at their most unremitting. The period from March to Easter can be one of the most rewarding in which to travel: most tourist services are still open, but you'll avoid the crowds, while the Patagonian forests along the Andean spine assume their autumnal colours and the winds are less incessant. Close season runs from Easter to around the end of October. At this time, temperatures can plummet to -25°C, and many mountain roads become impassable. Public transport becomes extremely infrequent and there's very little tourist traffic, with the exception of those who visit Peninsula Valdes to see the breeding of the southern right whales and sea elephants. Though cheaper than in the early 1990s, Patagonia is still renowned for its high prices . For those with a healthy wad of pesos, the range of accommodation available reaches international standards of luxury in a few places, though for those on a tight budget there's little option but to hitch, camp and cut out the luxuries. Reasonably priced dormitory accommodation is available in the more popular spots, but elsewhere cheap options can be hard to find, particularly for singles. Despite the distances involved, driving is relatively cheap, as fuel in the provinces of Chubut and Santa Cruz is subsidized by fifty percent. Be aware of the need for caution on the region's many gravel roads, however. Visitors who have limited time, or who are less interested in getting an impression of the vast scale of the place, should try to make use of domestic flights to avoid some rather gruelling bus journeys. Airports at Trelew, El Calafate, Rio Gallegos and Comodoro Rivadavia all have regular connections to the capital.
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