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Two roads head west from near Junin into the lake district around Lago Huechulafquen . Just to the south of town, the RP62 takes you to the Termas de Epulafquen (also called Termas de Lahuen-Co): a collection of small circular thermal and mud pools up to 2m in diameter to the southeast of Lago Epulafquen. The hottest pool, Pozo Central, reaches temperatures of 65°C. To walk around all the pools takes about 45 minutes. Agencies in Junin charge $30 for a day-trip to the pools, passing Lagos Curruhue Chico and Curruhue Grande, Lago Verde and the ancient black lava-flow ( escorial ) of Volcan Achen Niyeu on the way. Or you can make your own way here and pitch a tent at Camping Termas de Epulafquen , 64km from Junin. The RP62 continues to Paso Internacional Carirrine (open summer only), a Chilean border crossing. The second road, the RP61, branches off the RN234 just north of Junin and skirts the northern shores of Lago Huechulafquen on its way to beautiful, boomerang-shaped Lago Paimun. Huechulafquen, the park's largest lake, is an enormous finger of deep blue water, 105km long, that extends into the steppe. The mouth of the Rio Chimehuin at the lake's eastern end is a notable fly-fishing spot. At the park gate, you'll be charged $5 entrance. On the north shore, there are plenty of spots to camp for free, as well as organized sites with facilities, run by the Raquithue and Canicul Mapuche communities: Bahia Canicul is about halfway along the lake at Km 54, while Raquithue is 1km further on to the west. At the western end of the lake is the settlement and jetty of PUERTO CANOA . From here, you can look up at the fantastic, crevassed south face of Volcan Lanin, a popular photo opportunity. A seven-hour trail leads from behind the guardaparque post here to the climbing refuge halfway up the mountain, where you can overnight before returning along the same route. Also from Puerto Canoa, a fun boat trip on the catamaran Jose Julian leaves for a circuit that includes Lagos Huechulafquen, Paimun, and Epulafquen, where you'll see the solidified lava river of Volcan Achen Niyeu ($15). At Puerto Canoa, stay at Hosteria Huechulafquen (tel & fax 02972/426075; lafguen@smandes.com.ar ; closed March-Oct), a snug fishing lodge in full view of Lanin, 55km from Junin. Its restaurant is open to the public at lunch, and the cuisine has central European influences. Just beyond is Hosteria Paimun (tel 02972/491211, fax 491201) in a delightful spot on the shore of Lago Paimun. The eastern end of Lago Paimun is fairly bucolic farmland, dotted with Mapuche smallholdings. The further west you go, the more forested the scenery becomes, with beautiful woods of rauli, roble pellin and coihue . Its northern shores have beaches of dark volcanic sand. You can hike around the lake in three days: it's not too strenuous, although the path is difficult to follow in places, so ask for information at Puerto Canoa's guardaparque post or the one 8km along Paimun's northern shore. To complete the loop, you'll need to make use of the rope-pull ferry across the narrows at La Union, the place where the two lakes join.
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