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Though not as attractive as its neighbour, San Martin de los Andes, JUNIN DE LOS ANDES is better placed for making trips to the central sector of Parque Nacional Lanin, especially for exploring the Lago Huechulafquen area and if you plan to climb Volcan Lanin itself. In addition, it is a convenient starting point for trips to Alumine and the less-visited northern zone of the national park. Junin is also less expensive than touristy San Martin, both in the summer and as an alternative winter base for skiing at Chapelco. Set in a dry, hilly area of the steppe at the foot of the Andes, Junin is a spruce little town with well-tended gardens and a relaxed atmosphere. It's popular with fishermen, since the Rio Chimehuin that flows along the east side of town and other rivers in the region are popular with trout. The few sites of interest in town are all within a couple of blocks of the main square, the Plaza San Martin , and can be seen in an hour or two. The Paseo Artesanal on the east side of the square is a cluster of boutiques selling a selection of crafts, amongst which Mapuche weavings figure heavily. The tiny Museo Mapuche (Dec-Feb Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 3-8pm; free), Gines Ponte 541 has Mapuche archeological artefacts and a few dinosaur bones on display; while opposite is the tall, Alpine-style tower of the Santuario de la Beata Laura Vicuna , also called by its old name of the Iglesia Nuestra Senora de las Nieves. Extensively remodelled and reopened in time for the millennium celebrations, this splendid church is dedicated to Junin's most famous scion, the beatified Laura Vicuna, and rates as the most original and refreshing church in Argentine Patagonia. Its airy, sky blue interior is suffused with light, and its clean-cut lines are tastefully complemented by the bold use of panels of high-quality Mapuche weavings, with strong geometric designs and natural colours - altogether a thoroughly satisfying hybrid of styles and cultural influences. Laura Vicuna herself, famed for her gentleness, was born in Santiago de Chile in 1891. She studied in Junin with the Salesian sisters for four years, and died here, aged just 13, in 1904. A good time to visit is mid-February for the Fiesta del Puestero , with gaucho events, folklore music in the evenings, artesania and asados .
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