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The RP23 runs parallel to the turbulent waters of the Rio Alumine, carving its way through arid rocky gorges on its way from Junin to Alumine , and then continues on to Lago Alumine and the turn-off to Villa Pehuenia, passing groves of araucaria trees growing along the river's upper reaches. To the east, parallel with the valley, lies the Sierra de Catan Lil , a harsh and desiccated range that's older and higher than the neighbouring Andes. At RAHUE , 16km south of Alumine, a branch road leads to Quillen, 29km away. Rahue itself is nothing more than a couple of houses by a road junction and an enthusiastic tourist office (mid-Nov to April daily 8am-8pm). ALUMINE itself is a tiny place built by the river, and has a gentle pace of life. For a week in March it celebrates the Fiesta del Pehuen to coincide with the Mapuche harvest of pinones , with displays of horsemanship, music and artesania . Its main claim to fame is as a summer rafting centre : organized trips are run by Agencia Amuyen, General Villegas 348 (tel & fax 02942/496368; $60 for five passengers). They also rent mountain bikes. A branch road heads west from the village to Rucachoroi and (28km away) the guardaparque post. There is no public transport heading that way, you'll need to book a taxi (tel 02942/496398 or 496179; $20-25). Alumine's bus terminal is on Avenida 4 de Caballeria, half a block from Plaza San Martin, where you'll find the tourist office , at Cristian Joubert 321 (daily 8am-6pm; tel 02942/496001, fax 496154). Just about everything else you need is within a block or two of the plaza. Hotel Pehuenia , at junction of RP23 and Capitan Crouzeilles (tel & fax 02942/496340; $60-80), is a resort hotel not entirely in keeping with the rest of the village. Its rooms are comfortable, if a little twee, and half have river views. The hotel rents out mountain bikes and arranges horseriding. Hosteria Alumine , Cristian Joubert 336 (tel 02942/496174, fax 496347; $30-45), is a clean, straightforward ex-ACA hotel with apartments for up to six people. Sometimes they'll rent a room with shared bathroom for as low as $10 per person. The restaurant here is a good place to try soup of pinones (the famous araucaria pinenuts), and main courses are very reasonably priced ($4-8). Good value, too, is Hosteria Nid-Car , Cristian Joubert 559 (tel 02942/496131; $30-45), which also serves meals. Cheaper still is the free and agreeable municipal campsite , by the river, 1.5km north of town. Alumine also has a YPF fuel station - one of the few in the area.
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