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The northern sector of Parque Nacional Lanin and the adjoining Pehuenia region further north is one of the least developed and most beautiful areas of the Argentinian Lake District. This "forgotten corner" of Mapuche communities, wonderful mountain lakes, basalt cliffs and araucaria forests has largely escaped the commercial pressures found further south in the park system, although locals and recent settlers are fast waking up to its potential, and tourists are arriving in ever increasing numbers. Infrastucture links are still fairly rudimentary (though improving every year, so check before setting out), and having your own transport is a boon. Otherwise, you'll need to take a taxi, or hitch - best done along those roads that branch off the RP23 to the lakes of Quillen, Rucachoroi, and Norquinco, as well as the stretch between Norquinco and Moquehue. This latter stretch forms one of the legs of the only logical road circuit found here, the Pehuenia Circuit , which links Villa Pehuenia on the northern bank of Lago Alumine with tiny Moquehue , at the southwest tip of the eponymous lake, and passes along Lago Norquinco , the northernmost boundary of the park. Most people finish or start the circuit in Alumine , the region's most important settlement, though itself not much more than a village. The lack of convenient road routes acts as encouragement to trek : you can make your own circuits by hiking through the park's heartland, linking any or all the stages from Villa Pehuenia south to Quillen. The sections described here take a north-south route, with the exception of the one from Quillen, which heads in the opposite direction. Each stage - Villa Pehuenia, Moquehue, Norquinco, Rucachoroi and Quillen - can be completed in a full day, but look at a minimum of five days rather than four to complete the whole route, not including transport to the trailheads. For the last three mentioned, you should carry all the food you need - though you can top this up in Norquinco and Rucachoroi - and you must register with the guardaparque before setting out on any of them, reporting your safe arrival at the other end. The guardaparque will inform you of the latest conditions, which is especially important in early or late season: you must cross several mountain ranges that top out at 2000m and branch eastwards from the cordillera, and snowfalls can obscure the path over the passes. If it's not safe, the guardaparque will refuse permission for you to trek. All of the stages bar the one linking Rucachoroi and Quillen can be done by mountain bike , for which the terrain is ideal. There's tremendous scope for other outdoor activities here, including rafting through the scenic gorge of the Rio Alumine and horseriding . Those especially keen on the latter might like to contact Paso Ancho, C.C. 10, Las Lajas (fax 02942/499220; larminat@posoancho.com ), an adventure activities outfit whose speciality is a seven-day expedition on horseback from Paso Pino Hachado to their base at little-visited Lago Pilhue ($595 with airport transfer from Neuquen).
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